And once you upgrade the stereo, it'll also be a nice place to spend time. The Escape came with two entertainment options: the base system and the Mach system. The options changed a little from to , but in general the Mach system added an amplifier, a subwoofer built into the rear side panel, and starting in tweeters in the front doors.
Replacing the stereo can be a bit more complicated In vehicles equipped with hybrid powertrains. As you might expect, these vehicles contain some very sensitive electronics, so here are a couple of things to keep in mind:. The opening in the dash looks like a double-DIN slot, but is actually a little smaller.
A single-DIN aftermarket car stereo fits right in there with the help of a mounting kit. As a result, you will not be able to re-install the original Ford radio after making these modifications. Once you have the receiver out, the dash cavity offers better than 9" in depth, so almost any car stereo will fit in here. However, bear in mind that the heater box does offer some obstruction at the back of the cavity, so take care when you're shoving everything into place.
You'll need a set of DIN tools to remove the original radio — you poke these U-shaped tools into the front of the Ford radio and it'll pop right out. A harness is also available that lets you connect the new car stereo without having to cut off the plug that connected to the Ford radio.
The mounting kit, DIN tools, and harness are available at a deep discount with your Crutchfield stereo purchase. Replacing the radio in the Mach system is just about the same as with the basic system, but the amplifier in the upgraded system adds a couple of wrinkles. First, you'll need the right harness to connect your new car stereo to the Ford amp, which is available at a special price with most receiver orders from Crutchfield.
You'll also want to select a car stereo that features dedicated subwoofer preamp outputs in order to get the best performance from the Mach system's factory subwoofer. Finally, the Ford amp is used to getting a 5-volt signal from the stock radio, so the volt signal from a new stereo will cause an audible and annoying thump every time you turn on the vehicle.
You'll need to purchase an inexpensive volt to 5-volt adapter to cure this problem. Trust us, it's worth every penny. Shop for car stereos that fit your Ford Escape. The front door speakers sit pretty low in the doors.
They're easy to replace, though. Crutchfield Research Photo. In vehicles equipped with the base system , the front and rear doors hold 4-ohm 6"x8" speakers, located way down low in the door panels. There are only six steps required to get the front-door panel off the door, then remove and replace the front speakers.
You have plenty of room in those doors, so a wide selection of speakers will fit. Harnesses are available for both doors so you don't have to cut off the factory plugs. Since the speakers are down by your feet, you should consider component speakers up front to raise the soundstage to a more satisfying level. Installing the tweeters in the sail panels involves a bit of customization, but it's worth it. It'll sound like someone removed a blanket from your speaker system. You can pry off the sail panels with a panel tool, so removing the tweeters is pretty simple.
You'll have to fashion some kind of mounting bracket to hold the new tweeters, but that's not difficult. We suggest getting a couple of our universal backstraps to help with the job. They can be bent or cut to the size and shape you need. A wiring harness isn't available for this tweeter location, so you'll have to cut off the factory plugs to attach the wires to your new tweeters.
Shop for speakers that fit your Ford Escape. You'll find the factory sub and amp behind the right rear quarter panel. In the Mach system, you'll find an 8" subwoofer in a plastic enclosure behind the rear quarter panel. Replacing it is easy, but you'll need to drill some new holes for the mounting screws.
The factory sub is a dual 1. If you're going to go in that direction, you should also replace the sub's amplifier. Enter your vehicle info to see what's available. Shop for vehicle-specific subwoofers for your Ford Escape. A Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit is the perfect way to seal in sound. This heavy-duty insulating material is easy to install, and it really makes a difference. One kit will take care of the front doors in your Escape.
Installing a security system in your Escape or Mariner isn't easy security systems rarely are , but it's definitely a good idea. Our Crutchfield Advisors can help figure out what you need to get the job done, but we usually recommend taking your car and new gear to a professional installer.
Shop for car security systems for your Ford Escape. Visit our Outfit My Car page and enter your vehicle information to see stereos, speakers, subs, and other audio accessories that will work in your vehicle. Will, If you're talking about adding aftermarket tweeters to Mach-style sail panels, the answer is "Maybe? But if I'm reading this wrong, you should probably give us a call and talk to one of our advisors.
We can help you choose the right gear and give you the right advice on how to install it. OK, I have a Escape, with the base radio system.
Can I just go to a salvage yard and get the correct sail panels and then add tweeters? I have escape and would like to install a model Dual Tech navigation mechless reciever will there be a issue with sub woofer I have pre plugs located in back of the dual tech.
Will that operate sub. All bought from Crutch. The new Sony deck is connected with a wire harness, door speakers no problems. The problem is there is a Wire Harness in the back that was used to connect the factory amp with about 5 wires in it. I can find a harness anywhere that I can connect my Clarion amp to that will 'plug-in' to that factory amp harness.
Trying to avoid running new wires all the way through the length of the car since the wiring is already there.. Any help? One major sound improvement, which is usually overlooked is when upgrading factory head unit with factory sub and amp. Don't forget to use a RCA Y adapter.
I run only my right sub preout Reason being the factory amp is a mono block. And running 2 differing signals to one channel causes distortion. I tried with and without Sound quality was greatly improved using Y adapter.
First off I think this was very helpful for me in deciding whether or not to replace the factory sub and amp. Secondly I would like to add u have owned a and a escape and they both came with the front tweeters in the sail of the doors as well as the factory 8 inch sub and amp as opposed to your the information that was the first year that came with the tweeters. That statement is incorrect was the first year it was available as an option when purchasing your escape. Nate, Look for a metal bolt close to where the amp is going to go.
If you can't find one, you can drill a hole for your own grounding screw or bolt. BUT, if you choose the latter, b sure to work carefully, know what you're drilling into and around, and always wear eye protection. Ted, I've sent your question to our sales team, and they'll be contacting you via email soon. For immediate help, you can contact them via phone or chat. Pull the wiring by the white plastic wire binders to disconnect all of the groups. Connect the wiring groups from the Ford to a wiring harness adapter.
Connect the wiring harness adapter to the stereo. The wiring harness leads will be marked to identify which connections go into which of the stereo outlets. Connect the signal cable and turn-on lead both provided in the amplifier wiring kit to the wiring harness adapter.
Route the cables from inside the stereo dock, beneath the carpeting, to the rear cargo area of the Escape. You will need to remove the trim panels for the carpeting on the opposite side of the Ford. Replace the trim panel in the doorways with the cables secured beneath the carpeting.
Replace the stereo into the dash of the Escape by pushing it into the stereo mounting dock until it locks into place. Connect the signal cable and turn-on lead to the powered sub-woofer in the rear cargo area. Connect the grounding wire provided in the amplifier wiring kit to the sub. Connect the other end of the grounding wire to a bolt in the cargo area. Any bolt directly connected to the frame of the vehicle will do. You may have to pull an area of carpeting back to reveal a suitable bolt for grounding.
Replace the negative battery cable clamp to the negative lead post. Tighten the clamp around the post using a Phillips head screwdriver. Jule Pamplin has been a copywriter for more than seven years. Add to Wish List. Need Help? Chat with an Expert. Features Works with: Ford - Lincoln - Mazda - Mercury This dash kit allows you to replace your vehicle's factory stereo to improve the overall sound quality of your car audio system.
Vehicle Compatibility.
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